![]() ![]() ![]() Ran Duan’s opera-singer parents started their Sichuan Garden restaurants, in Woburn and Brookline, in the ‘90s to support their family. Ran Duan at Baldwin Bar at Sichuan Garden. (“No Mask - No Honor - No Service,” it reads on the front.) It might lovingly send up stereotypes, with tongue firmly in cheek: At Lucky Danger, a classic red-on-white takeout menu is scattered with malapropisms and silly jokes. It might offer riffs like cheeseburger egg rolls and mapo mac and cheese, as at Nice Day or fried chicken spiked with five-spice powder and Sichuan peppercorns, made by a former Eleven Madison Park sous chef, as at Pecking House. The menu might play it straight, as with Lazy Susan, where the focus is on staples like crispy spring rolls, hot and sour soup, fried rice, and beef and broccoli. With restaurants such as Lazy Susan in San Francisco, Lucky Danger in Arlington, Va., and Nice Day Chinese Takeout and Pecking House in New York, they pay tribute to the classic restaurants they grew up with - and often in, helping out with the family business. Now, around the country, the next generation of Chinese American chefs is embracing and updating that template. As people got a little more sophisticated with Chinese food, it grew.”Ī variety of cocktails at The Kowloon Restaurant in Saugus. Cutlets, pork chops, club sandwiches, BLTs, things like that. (His father passed away in 2011 his mother is now 94.) “There was a lot of steak. ![]() “When my grandparents ran it, it was chop suey and chow mein and a lot of American dishes, too, because American-born people weren’t really familiar with Asian food,” says Bob Wong, one of Madeline and William’s children, who runs the Kowloon with his siblings. Over the years, the menu evolved with the restaurant. The Kowloon still stands on Route 1 in Saugus more than 70 years after it opened, a landmark of glorious isosceles architecture, the tiki god above the entrance glowing in the neon light. Eventually, the restaurant would come to have 1,200 seats, themed areas like the Tiki Lagoon Room and the Luau Room, a comedy club, and a different name. Along the way, they had six children in her spare time, Madeline worked as an insurance agent for John Hancock, setting sales records as one of the rare Asian American women on staff. Their daughter and her husband, Madeline and William Wong, took over the business in 1958 and began to expand, buying adjacent land and building additions. The couple, who had moved to Massachusetts from China, offered dishes that would appeal to American diners: fried rice, chow mein, egg foo yong. Serve with a basket of good Italian bread and butter.In 1950, husband and wife Chun Sau Chin and Tow See Chin started a small restaurant of 40 to 50 seats called the Mandarin House. When ready to serve, just put the pot of "American Chop Suey" along with bowls in the middle of the table, so everyone can help themselves.Mix well and keep heated, covered, stirring occasionally, on a very low heat. Very carefully, add the beef and vegetable mixture, juices and all, to the drained pasta in the large saucepan.Drain pasta and put back into the large saucepan in which it was cooked. The macaroni should be al dente, because it will continue to cook a little when added to the beef/vegetable mixture. Meanwhile, cook the elbow macaroni, according to the directions on box, in a very large saucepan.Let simmer, covered, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle the mixture with the sugar, basil, oregano, and parsley and mix. Continue to cook until the ground beef is browned, about another 5 minutes, mixing the beef up with the vegetables. Then add the ground beef, breaking up with a wooden spoon. Add the minced garlic and mix into the vegetables. Add the onion and continue to cook until celery, peppers, and onions are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the cut-up green bell pepper, and cook a few more minutes. Add the chopped celery and cook a few minutes. In a very large skillet, heat the olive oil. ![]()
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